The revolution is here. It will not be televised, but will instead be poured, in all its pink-hued goodness. Rosée all day, as the quintessential summertime hashtag goes. Since 2010 consumption of rosé has increased by 1,433% in the United States. In the same period closer to home, exports of New Zealand made rose have increased tenfold. Zoomed in further still, and in our stores the range is now extensive enough that each new arrival often leads to some head scratching about where exactly to fit it. Happy conundrums.
Revolution, not renaissance, by the way, because this is no return to glory days or past heights, but instead a march towards new levels of quality. The sheer volume of rosé being enjoyed worldwide has grown massively, but interestingly this is largely being driven by demand for more premium bottles.
At the spearhead, and to no small degree responsible for much of this craze, is Château d’Esclans of Provence.
CHATEAU D'ESCLANS
Situated a few kilometres from the ancient Roman port of Frejus, the château’s foundations are in fact the oldest in the region, dating from the twelfth century. The current château is rather newer, but exceedingly beautiful, a Tuscan villa inspired, pastel washed building that wouldn’t look out of place as the backdrop of a Wes Anderson film.
The modern tale of Château d’Esclans and their rise to rosé royalty, however, begins in 2006 with the purchase of the estate by Sacha Lichine. Born to a Bordelaise wine family that included a man (his father, no less) known as the ‘Pope of Wine,’ Sacha nevertheless received his education and much of his early grounding in the industry in America. He returned to run his family’s estate in Margaux at the grand old age of 27.
After founding negociant companies and producing wines under his own name, Sacha’s eye was drawn to Provence, and the potential for rosé wines in the region especially. He made the purchase of Château d’Esclans.
At that time the château was selling most of its fruit, and producing only a small quantity of wine under its own label. Lichine changed all of that, with a focus on making the best rosé possible. The results speak for themselves - today the château’s most recognised bottling, the Whispering Angel, is one of the most popular and sought after wines in the world.
Not content with that, Château d’Esclans also set out to show that still rosé could be more than a poolside sipper, and could in fact be made into one of France’s finest wines. The result is Garrus. From Grenache vines nearing a century of service - some of the oldest in the country - and eleven months in oak, this is as serious and powerful a rosé as has ever been made.
