On the Dijon road, in the historic town of Beaune, sits Domaine de Bellene. This very modern winery is sited in abbey buildings that date back to the 1600s, all renovated as, Nicolas himself deliciously translates, ‘in the green spirit.’ Having sold Domaine de Nicolas Potel to other interests (the wag!), Nicolas procured some of the oldest vines (50-110 years old) and best plots in Burgundy and set about converting them to organic and biodynamic practices. No chaptalisation here, mon ami, no tractors either: just donkeys and horses for the back-breaking vineyard work. And just true expressions from some of the greatest earth on earth.