Grower champagnes are the family enterprises, often stretching back over generations, who own their own vineyards in the heart of the Champagne appellation.
From here, they grow the grapes to make their own wine, often bottling it on the premises as well. If it’s individuality and character you’re after, the Grower champagnes have it in spades.
Lacking the gargantuan resources of the big players, they are more reliant on the characters to be found within particular vintages and locations. The wines them-selves come in a diverse range of distinctive styles reflecting the idiosyncrasies of their particular terroir.
The diversity, complexity and individuality of these boutique styles sets them apart from the mainstream. With corporatization of the industry so prevalent, many aficiona-dos are developing a taste for these smaller scale, handcrafted champagne styles.
Grower champagnes often find themselves introduced using broad strokes – artisanal, small scale, usually family-owned grape to glass operations.
Those descriptions are good, of course, but can at times fail to convey the unique nature of many of these producers and the variety of tastes on offer. These are, after all, not wines made by committee, bound by expectation or potentially having their own eccentricities diluted by the blending vat.
Each village, vintage and vintner have their voice on display in every bottle of Grower champagne. As a happy consequence, there is a bottle for every palate.
Whether it is the power and oak-driven rich-ness of a Henri Giraud or the floral delicacy of a Lassalle, the world of Grower champagne is a cornucopia of interesting stories and excellent wines waiting to be discovered.
Situated in Champagne's southern reaches in the Cote des Bar, Serge Mathieu are family owned and managed. They can trace their history back to 1665. Working sustainably and as close to the edge of biodynamics as nature will allow, low filtration, low use of sulphur and gentle handling produce an attractively delicate style that is Pinot Noir dominant. With its lovely texture and weight, this is an style that will appeal to a wide range of champagne lovers.
VINTAGE | NV
VOLUME | 750ml
$74.99
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When the current, fifth generation took over they made four key changes, extending aging and undertaking oak fermentation, with no malolactic and a lower dosage of 3-4g/l. Chardonnay specialists, the fruit comes from the villages of Mesnil and Vertus. Stylistically pure, precise and austere in character.
VINTAGE | NV
VOLUME | 750ml
$79.99
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Paul Bara have been producing superb grapes off the same 11 hectares in Bouzy for seven generations. They produce a Grand cru Pinot Noir champagne with superb power and drive, the high percentage of reserve wines providing impressive richness and complexity. This has had three years in the cellar prior to release and a dosage of 8g/l.
VINTAGE | NV
VOLUME | 750ml
$79.99
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Sited just outside Reims in Chigny-les-Roses, the boutique producer J Lassalle is run by three generations of women. The small-scale 100,000-bottle production is very traditional, with stainless steel, no oak, malolactic and 8-9g/l dosage. Lassalle have 11ha, all Premier Cru, divided into 45 different parcels. With its vibrantly fresh minerality, the Preference embodies the spirit of the J Lassalle house. A smooth and fruity palate evokes characters of pear, apple, peach and apricot, underlined with notes of liquorice and fennel. Unassailable quality.
VINTAGE | NV
VOLUME | 750ml
WAS $84.99
NOW $74.99
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Located in the village of Cramant in the Cote de Blancs, records show the Lilbert family have been cultivating vines since 1746. They turn out wines of exceptional quality. White floral aromatics with hints of honey, the palate clean and fresh with a pure line of acidity through the middle, followed by a dry and delicate finish.
VINTAGE | NV
VOLUME | 750ml
$86.99
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Giraud use very little additional sulphur, and in future disgorgements we are likely to see these reduced further. All of their champagnes are sourced from Grand Cru vineyards.